Globally renown for its
shore temples, Mahabalipuram was the second capital of the Pallava kings
of Kanchipuram. 58 kilometres from Madras on the Bay of Bengal, this
tiny sea - side village of Mahabalipuram, is set in a boulder - strewn
landscape. Tourists are drawn to this place by its miles of unspoiled
beach and rock-cut art. The sculpture, here, is particularly interesting
because it shows scenes of day-to- day life, in contrast with the rest
of the state of Tamil Nadu, where the carvings generally depict gods and
goddesses
Mahabalipuram art can be divided into four
categories : open air bas - relief, structured temples, man-made caves
and rathas ('chariots' carved from single boulders, to resemble temples
or chariots used in temple processions). The famous Arjuna's Penance and
the Krishna Mandapa, adorn massive rocks near the centre of the village.
The beautiful Shore Temple towers over the waves, behind a protective
breakwater. Sixteen man-made caves in different stages of completion are
also seen, scattered through the area.
History
The temples of Mamallapuram, built largely during the reigns of
Narasimhavarman and his successor Rajasimhavarman, showcase the movement
from rock-cut architecture to structural building. The mandapas or
pavilions and the rathas or shrines shaped as temple chariots are hewn
from the granite rock face, while the famed Shore Temple, erected half a
century later, is built from dressed what makes Mamallapuram so
culturally resonant are the influences it absorbs and disseminates.
All but one of the rathas from the first phase of Pallava
architecture are modelled on the Budhist viharas or monasteries and
chaitya halls with several cells arranged around a courtyard. Art
historian Percy Brown, in fact, traces the possible roots of the
Pallavan Mandapas to the similar rock-cut caves of Ajanta and Ellora.
Referring to Narasimhavarman's victory in AD 642 over the Chalukyan king
Pulakesin II, Brown says the Pallavan king may have brought the
sculptors and artisans back to Kanchi and Mamallapuram as 'spoils of
war'.
Temples in Mahabalipuram
There are, or rather were, two low hills in Mahabalipuram, about 400m
from the sea. In the larger one, on both sides, there are eleven
excavated temples, called Mandapas, two "open air bas reliefs",
one of which is unfinished, and a third enclosed one. Out of a big rock
standing free nearby there is a "cut out" temple, called a "Ratha".
This type is unique to Mahabalipuram.
Out of the other hill,
much smaller and standing about 200m to the south, are fashioned five
more rathas, and three big sculptures of a Nandi, a Loin and an
Elephant. On the top of the bigger hill there is a structural temple,
and a little distance the magnificent beginnings of a Vijayanagar Gopura
and also survivals of what is believed to be a palace.
- Shore Temple
Perched on a rocky outcrop, it presides
over the shoreline, serving, as Percy Brown puts its, 'a landmark by
day and a beacon by night'. Designed to catch the first rays of the
rising sun and to illuminate the waters after dark, the temple ended
up with an unusual lay-out. As the main shrine faces the sea on the
east, the gateway, the fore count and the assembly hall of the Shore
Temple all lie behind the sanctum.
Unusual, too, is the
fact that the temple has shrine to both Shiva and Vishnu. The main
sanctum and one of the two lesser ones on the west are dedicated to
Shiva. The enclosing wall has a series of Nandi bulls on it.
Interconnected cisterns around the temple meant that the sea
could be let in to transform the temple into a water shrine. But, in
recent times, a stone wall as been added to protect the shrine from
the rising seas and further erosion.
- Mandapas
The main hill at Mamallapuram is dotted
with pillared halls carved into the rock face. These mandapas, with
their graceful columns and intricate figure sculptures bear witness
to the artistry of the Pallavan rock cutter. The ten pavilions at
Mamallapuram, of which two are unfinished, were designed as shrine,
with a sanctum and on outer hall. The shallow porticoes are adorned
with exquisite sculptures of gods, goddesses and mythological
figures.
The Ganesh mandapa is an active shrine even
today, with the idol of the elephant-god being revered by the
faithful, fourteen centuries after it was first consecrated.
Beyond the circular rock called Krishna's Butterball is the
Varaha mandapa dedicated to the two avatars of Vishnu as Varaha the
boar and Vamana the dwarf. The pillars of this pavilion are perhaps
the earliest to display a motif that became the signature of
southern architecture-the lion pilaster, where a heraldic lion
support ornamental pillar. The Mahishasuramardini mandapa has the
goddess Durga in bas relief, slaying a buffalo-headed demon, and the
Vishnu Sayana Mandapa shows Lord Vishnu lying under the protective
hood of the seven-headed serpent Adishesha.
Of the other
mandapas, the Panch Pandava mandapa, that is unfinished, has a more
elaborate facade. Its pillars are adorned with rearing lions
springing from the capital, and the shrine is the only one
surrounded by a passage which allows circumvolutions.
- Rathas
The eight rathas are monolithic temples
fashioned as chariots. They remain an architectural mystery, for
each is apparently a faithful reproduction of a structure built of
wood. In fact, even the grain of the timber beams and rafters has
been simulated in stone.
Of the eight rathas, five have
been named for the Pandava brothers, the heroes of the epic
Mahabharata, and their shared wife, Draupadi. The largest is the
Dharmaraja ratha and it sets the tone for the others. Modelled on a
Buddhist vihara or monastery, it sports a square hall topped by a
vaulting roof. The Bhima, Arjuna and Nakula-Sahdeva rathas are
lesser copies of the Dharmaraja ratha.
The Draupadi
ratha is the smallest and the quaintest. It is simple structure,
fashioned as a thatched hut borned on the backs of elephants and
lions. It was probably the fascimile of a portable village shrine.
The fact that many of the temples and sculptures of
Mamallapuram are unfinished, points to the sudden withdrawal of
patronage from rock-cut temples when King Rajasimhavarman came to
power.